Class Description:

Build a comb-back stick chair using common materials and tools on hand – plus a variety of methods. Stick chairs are a vernacular form of furniture that was built by farmers or part-time woodworkers. Stick chairs were built using the materials around the woodworker (green wood, dry wood, salvaged wood, found wood), and simple tools. Despite these limitations, stick chairs have a rugged beauty and a somewhat animalistic nature.

In this class we will build a comb-back stick chair – one of the most popular forms. The construction processes are a combination of heavy hand-tool use with some assistance from the band saw. The emphasis is on building beautiful chairs with a few tools – and even fewer jigs.

In addition, students will explore the idea that no two stick chairs should be identical. You’ll be encouraged to bring your own ideas forward with your chair to make something that is both yours and also fits within the great tradition of stick chairs that goes back to the 15th century.

Tools for the Chair

An important note on tools: When you arrive, your tools should be sharp and ready to go. There won’t be time to restore vintage tools or set up new tools in this class (there are other great classes for those activities).

Essential Tools

- Block plane

This is one of the most essential tools in the kit. I recommend a high-quality new one with an adjustable mouth, such as the Lie-Nielsen 60-1/2. The adjustable mouth will allow you to make against-the-grain cuts without tearing. If you have small hands, you can substitute a smaller model with a non-adjustable mouth. But you will be doing a lot more scraping.

- Jack plane

Another essential tool. I recommend a vintage metal jack, such as a pre-war Stanley No. 5. The older ones weigh less than the new premium jacks, which is a good thing. And the handles are far more comfortable. If possible, grind the iron so it has a pronounced curve, such as an 8” or 10” radius. If you don't have a grinder, a sharp, straight edge will work.

- Spokeshaves, flat sole and curved sole I am partial to shaves in the Stanley No. 151 pattern. These shaves have two blade adjustment screws. Veritas makes the best new ones. We will be working with dry wood, so wooden-bodies shaves are not ideal.

- 6” rule

- Small tape measure

- Sliding bevel

- Combination square (6” or 12”)

- Card scraper (we recommend the curved one we make at Crucible)

- Mechanical pencils (.9mm or .7mm lead)

- 10” or 12” Cabinet rasp, medium coarseness, such as 10 or 12 grain. If you have a finer rasp (such as the modeller’s rasp 15 grain or so, bring it). Auriou is my favorite brand

- Scorp (I recommend the Lucian Avery Inshave, the Hans Karlsson Inshave or the one from Jason Lonon). Order early to avoid disappointment!

- Travisher (Elia Bizzari’s 4.5” radius travisher, Peter Galbert’s T2 and the travishers from Allan Williams are all excellent). I also like the travishers from Windsor Workshop. If you use the Windsor Workshop travisher (particularly the Delrin one) then you don’t really need a scorp.

- Crosscut back saw (Western or a simple dozuki)

- Cork sanding block

- Flush-cutting saw (I’ve never encountered a great one; this one is pretty good)

- A ½” chisel

- Wooden yardstick

- Mallet (heavier is better for chairmaking). I like 2-1/2” lbs.

- Bubble level (any size will do except huge ones for carpentry).

- Cordless drill. If you have a big one (18v to 20v), please bring it. If you need a recommendation to buy, we use the DeWalt 20v drills with metal chucks. They are usually made in the USA.

- Random-orbit sander. If you have a 5” one, please bring it. Also useful: a 3M soft sanding pad. Bring #80 and #120 grit discs if you can.

OPTIONAL

If you have any of these tools already, it would be helpful to bring them. I’ll have these, but if we have more, it will mean less waiting for tools.

- Veritas Power Tenon Cutters. We’ll use the 5/8” and 1” tools

- Wood Owl 1” auger bit

Comb Back Stick Chair with Chris Schwarz