From peri peri prawns in Borough to zero-waste Peruvian cuisine in Marylebone, London’s food scene is as diverse as it is fleeting. Catch July’s best pop-ups, guest chef appearances and kitchen takeovers while they’re still hot.
One of London’s few beer-focused cooks is firing up the stoves over at this craft beer conscious Clapham pub. Look forward to a hungry drinker’s spread of cauliflower popcorn with lager hot sauce, stout beef croquettes, and chicken wings with lambic BBQ sauce.
Until 2nd September
No one knows where ultra-sustainable Hoxton-based bar and restaurant CUB will pop up in July. But that’s all part of the fun – once they’ve booked, diners will be emailed the location of their dinner the day before the event. I suppose, given CUB is from Mr Lyan, the bloke behind one of the world’s best bars, we’ll give them the benefit of the doubt.
£60 | 1st & 30th July
Recently named at no. 38 in The World’s Top 50 Restaurants, Lyle’s hosts Matt Aubergel from modern Japanese-style drinking den Yardbird in Hong Kong this month. A part of the Shoreditch restaurant’s long-running Guest Series, and in the vein of Lyle’s, Yardbird’s barbecue chicken skewers will take on a British spin, with odes to quail and guinea fowl. *UPDATE: This event has now sold-out but tickets are still available for Matt Abergel (and James Lowe of Lyle’s) at Shoreditch House on July 11.
£49 | 12th July
This month, Boston’s Asta and Kyoto’s Toshio Tanahashi are cooking in the revolving Carousel kitchen (good for vegetarians and those gagging for New England’s finest respectively), but it is Palmiro Ocampo who’s residency is perhaps most interesting: the ex-Noma Peruvian chef recently made news with his want to eliminate extreme hunger in his home country, within the next 12 years. The zero-waste menu is designed to reflect this, as ‘Bellaco Bone Marrow’; Beef Tongue; and ‘Rescued Lemon’ would suggest.
£39.50 | 10th–21st July
Ben Tish at The Swan, Shakespeare’s Globe
Best known for his 9-year stint as chef director of Salt Yard Group, grill master Ben Tish is teaming up with the Swan’s Allan Pickett to put on a focused menu including Cornish crab ravioli, aged beef tartare with pine nut puree, and vanilla-infused cheesecake.
2nd – 30th July
Borough Wines’ Kensal Rise branch gets the Portuguese-Chinese treatment. These ex-Druid Street Market hawkers rose to relative prominence in 2016, securing subsequent residencies at several pubs. At their Borough Wines joint, expect a regularly adapting menu, including the famed katsu sandwich (breaded iberico pork neck, a TĀ TĀ kimchi riff, and cabbage and raspberry jam).
Great Guns Social is a new Borough establishment that, much on the same model Carousel made successful, wants to give talented chefs a new audience in a comfortable setting. On this occasion especially, South Londoners are only too happy to oblige, with Maltby Street regulars African Volcano in the kitchen for July. Tuck into Mozambique-style spatchcock chicken and peri peri prawns.
Until 25th August
This 90-year-old Soho institution has recently hosted the likes of The Hind’s Head, Black Axe Mangal, and Olia Hercules – a riotous line up which has yielded doughnuts, treacle tarts, and Georgian walnut stew. Their upcoming visitors should prove just as appetising, with Quality Chop House, Cornerstone, and The Camberwell Arms in the fold. The latter will serve its typically sophisticated pub grub at QV for one night in July.
£45 | 25th July
Arguably London’s best fried chicken joint, Other Side Fried has a worthy – if somewhat unnoticed – stage at this revamped Lewisham pub. Support on the beer front comes from Deptford brewers, Villages, while the trader’s new extended weekday serving times means Lewisham’s brunch game is strong.
David Swann spent 20 years working for the likes of Heston and Gordon Ramsay before embarking on a more nomadic catering operation of his own. Now, with Food Story, he’s nobly trying to take kosher food to places it has not gone before. Diners are invited to see whether he’s managed it at this SOCIAL pop-up in Colindale.
£110 | 18th & 19th July
One of the first London pubs to trailblaze the kitchen residency in a serious way, The Duke’s Head swaps out June’s kitchen squatters Lord of The Wings for Caribbean/African peddlers Indie & West from the start of July. Find traditional Caribbean fare (e.g. curry goat) alongside more original dishes (yucca cassava fries, cocoa Guinness cake).
2nd – 22nd July